Is Finland the coolest country on Earth? Sitting in the Finnish embassy in Paris, watching models parade in Marimekko’s spring collection to the strains of a live jazz band, you might be forgiven for thinking so.

Creative director Anna Teurnell said she was trying to pinpoint the essence of Scandinavian design by presenting the collection in the space created by Finnish architect Veli Paatela, which features interior design touches like Alvar Aalto lamps.

“It portrays the lifestyle but also proposes something that I don’t think looks like everything else. It becomes something to me that is unique and stands out in the world, and I guess that’s why Scandinavian design is so appreciated. And what is that? It’s something functional, it’s something long-lasting, qualitative,” she said.

In that spirit, the line featured pieces from Marimekko’s archives mixed with new designs. As if to prove Teurnell’s point, you couldn’t tell which was which.

Two things stood out: The amount of black, either as a single color or in bold monochrome prints, and the hemlines splicing curved panels, in the front and back, with straight lines on the sides. The rest of the color palette had a Seventies tinge, with shades like mustard, pink, khaki, purple and brown.

Vintage lovers will no doubt snap up the looks, but they worked equally well as modern propositions. Evergreens like a khaki parka, black leather coat or beige trench should find room in plenty of wardrobes.

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