“The starting point was a stripe and string, with this idea of gathering, making it a bit more romantic, softer and less structured than unusual,” said Martin Grant.
In line with this easy mood, versatility was key. Long drawstring dresses untied and doubled as gilets worn over a pant, and “true summer” pieces to throw on at the beach like vivid, voluminous crispy cotton skirts were cut longer at the back and can be pulled up and worn as a bustier dress. For apéritif, “cruise-y” wide-leg pants had sections of bayadère horizontal stripes (also available in an overall-style jumpsuit version).
A new focus on separates included a cool bermuda short in a thick tan dry cotton with paper-bag waists and men’s-style shirting in striped cotton and cotton voile with oversized opaque pockets.
The collection moved between plain and optical plays on the stripe, building up to a striking geometric, interwoven blue, brown and gray labyrinth print worked across a range of pieces like scarf tops and shirtdresses.
Known for his elegant wardrobe staples, the designer may be softening up, but Martin Grant traditionalists can still get their fix with the line’s super-chic structured bustier dress in black cotton ottoman or an old-school, A-line ottoman coat with bell sleeves.