David Koma paid direct tribute to the house founder in this urban, contemporary spin on the Thierry Mugler power-dressing legacy.

There was also a bit of stargazing. “Deconstructed constellations” is how Koma described the jagged star constructions that blazed across dresses like lightning bolts or surfaced as cutouts on the hems of minis, in nods to the iconic star motif of the house’s Angel fragrance.

Shine came from the pleated lamé dresses in signature cobalt blue, a story line from the archive that fell a little flat on the asymmetric panel dresses and tops with pleated lamé inserts.

What worked best were the simpler, sculptural looks like the peak-shouldered, hourglass tailoring and minis in plissé stretch lamé with the volume coming from the sleeve construction, but also in the looks combining a strong shoulder with a soft line, like the cashmere knits.

The bright yellow bodysuits evoking air hostess or perfume salesperson uniforms were pure “beam me up.”

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