The ethereal cocktail Berlin-based Nobi Talai mixed is the combination of her Persian nomadic origins and German Bauhaus inspiration that made its Paris debut this season.
In this third collection, Talai transformed square shapes and cuts with fluidity, working silk chiffon and crepe de chine, soft goat suede and perforated napa leather with a charmingly gentle hand. She layer the different fabrics — often in tone-on-tone iterations — in a muted color palette of white, taupe, navy and a rich, turmeric yellow. Her designs, intended to allow the wearer to modify the look by wrapping, draping and layering, offered an understated sexy appeal as the fabric moved to reveal a hint of skin through slits on the arms or legs.
A standout was an elegant navy crepe de chine backless jumpsuit that used both surfaces of the silk to create contrasts between matte and shiny finishes, while a taupe ensemble in chiffon, belted with a horn buckle, played on contrasting horizontal and vertical pleats, and fluttered like the wind across the desert sands. Boxier outerwear shapes and leather pieces added more of an urban feel, but respected the fluidity of the whole, thanks to the soft materials, as in a yellow woven hopsack silk kimono jacket with a removable pleated border that definitely caught the eye, or a leather apron dress with a street-style edge.