This assured evolution of Pallas’ chic minimalist silhouettes based on le smoking was pure catnip for women after that aesthetic — Tilda Swinton, say, or Beyoncé, who was recently spotted in a single-breasted, striped blazer by the label.
There were subtle plays on asymmetry, which were a new way to flex the Paris atelier’s “petite couture” tailoring muscles, with raised single lapels adding a subtle edge to jackets, and the collection’s showpiece pairing of a precision-cut backless demi gilet-dress over pants.
Contrasting materials — matte and satin fabrics — or two colors on the same pants, in say, tan and black, gave a split-personality spin to silhouettes, with ultrafine piping tracing the seams or oversize tuxedo bands. The line’s mercury-draped, blouse-cum-jacket in liquid silk was to die for, while this season’s color pop, based on an archival fabric, fell somewhere between royal and sky blue.
Pallas is sold on Net-a-porter, but there’s a closed-circle appeal to the label’s flawless, feminine collections that continue to seduce, season after season.