The established Taiwanese label has been vocal about its ambitions to conquer the West, both with regards to catering to Chinese shoppers who travel abroad and to netting new clients. As such, the brand, which bases its approach on combining traditional Chinese handicraft with Western influences, continues to tilt more towards Parisian.

On-trend white Windbreakers in crinkly technical materials were layered over lingerie-inspired slips, the sleeves of the jackets pushed up to accentuate the Parisian attitude. But silver leather fringing worked into some of the lace pieces felt incongruous.

Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia looked to the colors and patterns of stained-glass windows for the line’s exclusive prints, delivered to varying results, with the colors at times unpalatable and some of the prints clunky.

The Chinese influences surfaced in traditional embroidery on dresses and outerwear, including a sporty gray trench with a gauzy look, as well as more literal nods like contemporary cheongsams with high, side splits and silk pajamas edged with lace. A red silk chiffon skirt embroidered with broken strips of red and white beading was among the highlights.

With some major personalities planted in her front row (last season it was Eva Longoria; this season Karlie Kloss took in the show dressed in one of the brand’s high-necked frilly blouses and corsets), and an established Parisian uberstylist by her side, it is clear the designer is surrounded by knowledgable advisers. Yet the brand’s identity, in such a congested market, feels a little lost in translation.

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