Goga Ashkenazi and her design team presented a strong, coherent collection for spring with an “Odyssey” nautical theme. “But it’s translated into modern, urban and – of course – Vionnet language,” she noted backstage.
That parlance included the heritage house’s liquid draping and ethereal femininity, which was transposed into some striking examples, such as the silk dresses in an aerial beach-scene print or in wafting plissé chiffon decorated with sinuous sailing rope looped in traditional sailors’ knots.
Layers of parachute silk created vivid waves of color, while fringes cascading down certain silhouettes gave a shimmery effect.
The designer also set out to say that Vionnet and instant fashion are not synonymous. “This piece took 194 hours to make” was emblazoned on one cloak’s back. Such lettering jarred the otherwise dreamy display, giving credence to the adage “show, don’t tell.”
The clothes’ fine rendering – like the bias-cut dress or playful chiffon fabric with small elastics melted on – sent the message out clearly enough.