Known for her retro-futurist stance, Johanna Senyk likes to spin new perspectives on old-school Parisian glamour and club-kid cool. Here the designer, who has been growing the fashion quotient of her label over the past few seasons (having started out in 2012 as a rainwear brand), explored new techniques and materials like Alcantara, a suedelike material as soft as sweatshirt fabric.
The line’s flowing, dressier looks had safari or cowboy touches and an Eighties vibe, moving into Nineties-raver mode on the more relaxed, sporty pieces like a yellow-silk jumpsuit with chain straps. The newness came from crinkled knits and covetable plissé cotton jumpsuits, skirts and dresses edged with ruffles that evoked summer nights; the key pant was a street-edged short with scooped hems.
Outerwear naturally anchored the collection, running the gamut from elegant pale-blue coats that draped across the body to leathery blousons in electric-blue and gold to a total-look trench and shirtdress silhouette dipped in a bright shade of raspberry. The rainwear department hatched gleaming hologram PVC-styles and stiff, seamless jackets made from a techno material while staying faithful to Senyk’s signatures: black vinyl and shimmering, wet-look silhouettes with a filmy transparency that evoked “Blade Runner.”
“The collection is inspired…by a strong woman who has a sense of who she is,” said Senyk, who herself has gained in confidence since scooping up this year’s ANDAM prize. But she still hasn’t lost her live-wire energy or sense of fun.