At the risk of blaspheming a high priest of the avant-garde, Yohji Yamamoto’s spring collection was — dare it be said — kind of trendy.
That off-the-shoulder look that has stormed the market, up and down? Get it here, with black bandage tops of the artful Ace, not Hervé Léger, variety, as well as spare white cotton dresses, simply draped like a sheet over one shoulder and decorated with black paintlike splotches.
The shirtdress, another commercial hero, came in white with rolled sleeves and large pockets tacked on and scattered on the front and back. Versions of overalls and jumpsuits, currently enjoying a massive revival, were represented in cut-up black trousers and a boxy, utilitarian-sexy V-neck onesie. There was even a gentle dose of logo mania on a jacket stitched with the Yohji Yamamoto signature logo on the back, as well as on some nifty combat boots.
Still full of asymmetrical cuts, jackets and shirts missing sleeves that seemed to reappear at random on another garment, the collection felt lighter, more simplified and less ponderous than Yamamoto can be. That’s not a slight. It felt good to take his work at face value and feel that you “got” it.