Yusuke Muramatsu and Ayumi Sekiguchi describe the aesthetic of their brand as “new girly style,” and their first showing during Tokyo Fashion Week lived up to that idea.
They titled the collection “Melancholic Garden,” with lighting on the runway that mimicked rays of sunlight filtering through tree branches. The show started off on a dark note with several all-black looks that utilized rich textures, including crocodile embossed vinyl, lace and metallic fabrics. The designers also played with proportions, pairing a voluminous A-line coatdress with skinny pants, and a cropped patent jacket with a high-waisted lace skirt. Bright floral embroidery lent a bit of color to the somber looks, while also foreshadowing what was to come.
Once things got a bit lighter with a white embroidered blouse layered under a sheer black organza skirt, and a lounge set in cream-colored lace, the color started flooding in. Bright purple, red, pink and yellow were mixed with forest green for a palette that mirrored flowers.
Overall, the collection oozed girliness, with bows tied around the neck, large ruffles used liberally, and jacquard dresses and jackets trimmed in tiny tassels and pearl-like beads. But there were also pieces that added some edge, such as orange, green or shocking pink mesh shirts, which were layered under satin pajamas, a snakeskin-embossed crop top, or a tiny patent tube top. These looks provided a refreshing change from the more matronly tea-length skirts and lace-trimmed blouses.