Designer Michael Halpern built on the hard-edged, shimmering brand of glamour that he debuted for fall: He played with sculptural shapes and animal patterns, revealing and concealing the body via all manner of sparkling fabrics.
There were stiff, three-dimensional strips of lurex that fanned out from a sequined dress in teal, and a snakeskin bomber jacket with poufy, voluminous sleeves worn over a slinky column dress. Alongside the thigh-skimming dresses and body-hugging jumpsuits, Halpern also ventured into pantsuits. But they were still high-octane, in fabrics such as a sequined cheetah print or Chinoiserie-esque embroidery on the palest blue silk. The models’ wet-look hair and shiny faces kept the allure edgy.
Halpern said after the show — presented in the opulent surroundings of London’s Palladium Theater, where the models wove in and out of the rows of seats — that he toyed with the notion of “good-bad taste” when working with the out-there animal patterns.
This lineup was certainly rooted in a dramatic, after-dark world. “It’s a reaction to what’s happening now, currently in Europe and America,” Halpern said of his embrace of sparkle. “You have this escapism to cope with everything — it’s sort of a young brand’s reaction to how scary things are right now. People want to be exuberant and happy and loud.”