Julien Macdonald’s flashy, sexy collection was about escapism. “The world is complicated, politically, and full of danger. What would happen if our world blew up and we ended up on a new planet? This planet would be inspired by a new utopia, a new breed of people.”
Like the old breed of people, they love a dash of glam. The collection was filled with shine and skin-baring silhouettes on dresses and gowns of varying lengths. Embellishment came as ornamental fringing, bugle beads, embroidered lace and crystal mesh. A white, thigh-skimming gown with a fragile, fitted bodice was hand-embroidered with crystals and finished with an elaborate, extralong train.
His new world also had elements of tropical foliage: Graphic botanical prints in primary colors were cast onto lingerie-like, floor-sweeping dresses with high-low hems and dramatic long trains. “There’s a softness and a hardness to my work — which is quite new to me,” said Macdonald, whose color palette ranged from liquid black, platinum burnished gold, copper and pewter to yellow, scarlet and a sapphire blue.
Elsewhere, the designer’s signature weblike knits glistened with metallic flecks, while utilitarian trousers were paired with hoodies dotted with studs.