Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida had a baby earlier this year, which got them thinking about the challenges facing a modern woman – building a career, being good at it, having a personal life and finding enough time to take care of your family and yourself.
One might expect that this would lead to a softer aesthetic for the duo that won the LVMH Prize in 2015, but that would be too obvious. Their spring 2018 collection was as sharp, sassy and sexy as ever — nothing approaching mumsy.
Sound bites of Dolly Parton praising her mother, “My mama was special in many, many ways,” was where the maternal references started and stopped.
As always, the designers were inspired by their friends and customers, who provided them with a host of ideas. There were nods to Americana and the Wild West in the form of cowhide pants, blanket stitching and red-and-white-stripes. Chinoiserie fabrics and dragon tattoo prints nodded to the Far East.
Feminine flourishes, such as the baby pink silk dress trimmed with marabou feathers or the cheongsam dress with saucy cutout panels, balanced edgier looks such as boxing shorts and a cropped red sequin vest. It was a complicated mix, but the duo pulled it off with confidence.