After sending out a rather polished, tailored collection the previous season, the MM6 team returned to the label’s youthful, denim roots for spring. The house took over a row of shops along a cobbled street in London’s Covent Garden, where they set up a buzzing pop-up shop complete with blaring music and interiors daubed with graffiti. That urban touch was inspired both by graffiti the team had scrawled inside the company’s Paris headquarters, and archive pieces from the house from the late Nineties.

As for the clothes, the designers riffed on Margiela signatures but gave them an off-hand, street-inflected twist. One white bib-front shirt nodded to the directional shapes the brand is known for, with its strong, boxy shoulders. But the design team paired it with a fluid cotton skirt and clear plastic leggings, so it looked less severe.

The graffiti motif turned up on a fluid trenchcoat and chunky-heeled ankle boots, while denim and leather were on heavy rotation, too. A heavy distressed leather jacket was worn with matching thigh-high leather boots, while a form-fitting dress in faded denim looked as if it was pieced together from a jacket and cut-up jeans.

Indeed, the collection had a distinctly hand-crafted, reworked element, as the team paid homage to the way in which Margiela would repurpose and deconstruct garments in his early collections. But they did this all with an eye to the real world, crafting designs that could easily have walked from the store into the street.

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