Women — their imperfections and their unapologetic attitude — dominated Roland Mouret’s thoughts for spring. He said he was thinking of Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keeffe and the women’s rights marchers who turned out in the millions to voice their views last January.
He also said he’s done with the idea of “perfection,” and wanted to create collections that were less about trends and more about allowing real women to express their own style.
Mouret tossed out his usual commercial, fluid fabrics and swapped them with textured ones. He also put the focus on separates to give his clients as much choice as possible, he said. The result was a breezy collection of loose-fitting silhouettes that could accommodate a variety of female forms — a departure for Mouret, who’s usually all about the sculpted, curve-hugging silhouette.
Long, fluid dresses and skirts came with handkerchief hemlines, or with fringes at the bottom. The body was still present: Dresses had cutout backs, while the tops of jumpsuits and blouses slipped easily off shoulders. Trousers were cropped and boxy, and came with a swirling blue-and-white print or in thick, embossed white cotton. In a nod to O’Keeffe, skirts were adorned with 3-D flower embroidery, as was a sheer top.
The colors were glorious, and mirrored those big skies over Mexico and New Mexico, in shades like punchy orange, lilac, deep red and bright blue. Now it’s time for Mouret’s bold new everywoman to mix it up and make it her own.