Following the departure of longtime collaborator Lawrence Steel, Aspesi, which last December was acquired by Italian private equity fund Armònia SGR, has yet to name another designer. In the meantime, the brand’s in-house creative team took the reins of the label and did well. The spring collection perfectly expressed the discreet, clean elegance that has always defined the brand. Here was a broad lineup of real, easy-to-wear pieces, crafted with high-end fabrics and enriched with special details. For example, a striped blouse was embellished with sophisticated draping at the collar and a multicolored striped silk dress came with a complicated twisted construction. Pants were cut loose; trenchcoats airy. Military accents emerged in a green shirt featuring wide lapels and patch pockets, which also punctuated a cotton canvas shirtdress cinched at the waist with a leather belt. The brand also embraced an arty mood by splashing a fresh cotton poplin frock with a pattern of sketched leaves and printing a hand-painted striped motif on a top combined with a circular skirt.

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