The “Prayer to Saint Therese” track by Johnny Jewel, Chloë Sevigny and Michel Gaubert served as inspiration for Nicola Brognano’s spring 2018 collection. In particular, the gardens of paradise mentioned in the track influenced his spring effort, which was titled “Avant Garde(n).” Actually the designer opened his show with an embroidered apron, echoing gardening styles, which he layered over men’s briefs and a shirt featuring exaggerated ruffled sleeves. “I like to mix couture-ish pieces with street references and men’s styles,” he said. For example he reworked a tailored mannish blazer by printing it with a floral pattern and cutting its back to add a sense of movement. Simple shirtdresses revealed chiffon ruffled inserts on the back and a pair of masculine pants were worn with a cropped top, which was actually a tulle cloud. His interesting combination of contrasting elements continued in a group of patent leather pieces, such as a mini frock, fusing a sexy feel with the sweetness of delicate ruffled details.

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