The designer was going for a breezy island feel, a summer of love and romance, and said backstage he wanted to make his designs more “contemporary and everyday,” venturing beyond his more formal, couture roots.
His island breeze blew in all different directions, though, with some of Scognamiglio’s silhouettes hitting the mark and others falling short. The latter included a thunderstorm of dark tropical patterns and lace, and odd styling touches like the sheer knee and ankle socks worn with high sandals.
This best bits of this collection were the minidresses that opened the show: The designer worked gorgeous shades of mauve into one with demure buttons and a fat ruffle detail at the front, and into other styles with deep V-necks, high waists or lace panels at the side.
A sheer white mini done in a Swiss dot-like fabric and ruffles was pure romance, while other, metallic dresses in Barbie Doll Cadillac pink, added a fun, surreal edge to the collection.
The mix of dark tropical prints and black lace, the heavily bejeweled bikinis and punched-out fabrics didn’t work. Ruffled dresses, some with big flower details at the waist, and other strapless ones with curve-hugging pencil skirts, were overwrought and even looked uncomfortable on the models.
Romance – on a summer island or on the streets of the city – is the way forward for Scognamiglio, who also needs to put those sheer socks back in the drawer.