Laura Biagiotti’s show for spring, the first since the death of the namesake designer in May, was bound to be emotional, but her daughter Lavinia appeared controlled and firmly set on carrying the torch. Serendipitously, she said her first show working with her mother took place exactly on the same date — Sept. 24 — 20 years ago and that she was ready to “bridge” the two generations “taking up the challenge of exalting the brand’s sartorial tradition with the new digital era.” To wit, she said that a few days after her mother’s passing, she hired new seamstresses to bolster the company’s pool of artisans.
The designer said the prints of iconic Roman monuments chosen for a number of looks had been selected together with her mother. In keeping with the brand’s spirit, Biagiotti said “fashion is joy, energy and happiness” and, to be sure, the collection was colorful and joyful. The designer channeled her romantic side, showing dresses with ruffles, pleated skirts and richly embroidered tops. She paid homage to the brand’s staples, showing plenty of its core knitwear looks, including easy slipdresses updated with Lurex threads — a big trend in Milan — and all-white designs. Biagiotti took her bow after a slideshow of her mother’s photos ran at the end of the catwalk, including of her pioneering runway presentations in Beijing and Moscow. Forever, spelled out in red, another favorite Laura Biagiotti color, stood out on the screens. Here’s wishing that be true to Lavinia.