For spring, Lucio Vanotti tempered his radical rationalism through the introduction of asymmetries and layering. The result was convincing. The designer’s signature rigorous attitude was still there, but a new feminine vibe took center stage. The dress that opened the show, a flared color-blocked asymmetric style featuring a plissé insert, set the tone for the collection, which was filled with multilayered frocks and skirts worked in a white, cream and black color combination. Influenced by Fifties’ references, Vanotti introduced flattering circle skirts, developed in several materials, from a striped shirting fabric to black leather, which were also used for a Teddy Body-inspired bomber. Vanotti’s iconic sartorial touch returned also in this effort in the shape of soft tailored suits and blazers, which were shown with the sleeves tied together on the front — a styling trick which exalted the edgy attitude of the collection. The spring show marked a nice step in the development of the designer’s women’s line which, with this collection, gains a new, exciting feminine flare.

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