Never mind the Max Mara show notes that went on about “Baudelairean views” and “a nouvelle vague of philosophers-cum-gardeners.” The spring 2018 collection was straightforward: a series of tailored silhouettes, minimalist and Nineties derived, repeated in seven or eight color ways and a print. There were a few variations here and there but the mainstays were slim transparent blazers and pants; pencil trench skirts; sharp, lean jumpsuits; jean jackets, and sporty tanks worn with belts slung with long panels of fabric that made a skirt-like contraption. The lineup went from camel to denim to white to a beige logo thingy to delicate purple and white florals to lavender and then finally to black. Black was the chicest. White was the freshest. The lavender and florals put a feminine spin on a very spare look. The beige and camel were, well, beige and camel.

The collection delivered on its baseline of quality classics to be kept for a long time. But should more ideas and depth be expected from Max Mara? Maybe, maybe not. It’s a ‘careful what you wish for’ scenario.



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