Americana meets Japonica pretty much sums up Adam Lippes’ assertive spring collection. “I just moved to Brooklyn, I have an amazing view of the water. It’s very inspiring, although it’s a construction site right now, so I brought my home here,” he explained at his showroom presentation, where he installed some of his furniture to set the mood. “I have a lot of Japanese influences in my home and that’s how my mind works — I get inspired by what surrounds me.” The lineup married both influences with subtlety and grace. For instance, classic Adam Lippes staples — the white shirt, the boyfriend trousers — featured sashiko, a Japanese stitchwork technique; the tailored jackets that he is so well-known for sported beautiful antique Japanese enamel buttons.

Sashiko was a recurring element throughout, shown most notably on a great circle skirt and matching top and a black kimono jacket. Elsewhere on pencil skirts, Lippes used indigo shibori dyed recycled blankets for an elevated sportswear vibe. Evening took a more minimal turn, via slinky silk jersey dresses. And because there always has to be a showstopper, a long silk kimono took it home.