The set at Beaufille’s spring presentation foreshadowed the inherent duality in the designs to come. Conceptualized by Brooklyn-based set designer Grace Hartnett, it brought together a series of mismatched objects in seeming randomness — translucent materials such as metal and glass were juxtaposed against industrial elements like cinder blocks and metalwork — that found balance in its pairings.
Beaufille is rooted in finding harmony in such opposing elements. Its name, after all, translates to “handsome girl” in French. Sisters Chloé and Parris Gordon tend to play on dichotomies of masculine-feminine and hard-soft. So when you see a set designed with such tough elements, you know not to expect clothes of the same nature.
Silhouettes took on house codes like their best-selling flared pant, done this season in a softer, visually arresting striped knit; romantic Victorian-esque details in punchy red chiffon, and soft tailoring. These soft, fluid shapes were the main counters to the space.
The designers focused on perception in many ways this season, namely through material versus technique. They challenged casual fabrics like shirting and jersey to be more elevated, treating them preciously with gathering and ruffles typically reserved for silks and chiffons. An elegant white dress made of the men’s wear fabric, for instance, featured smocking around the waist. Elsewhere, a coated cotton broad cloth gave the appearance of leather, yet was lightweight and cut in feminine shapes to challenge the material’s tough connotations. It all added to Beaufille’s treatment of long and elegant female forms with a quirky sophistication.