Brock Collection designers Laura Vassar and Kris Brock set out this season to inject an air of mystery into their lyrical vernacular. “We always take this path of this raw romanticism, and this season we wanted to put an edge on it,” Brock said backstage before the show.
As edges go, this was a gentle one, the models working a slightly undone, tousled beauty as they walked a floor strewn with gardenia petals and leaves that imparted an element of lovely, wistful decay. A lingerie focus formed the collection’s core; slip, nightgown and romper shapes in intricate laces and gentle florals seemed to be culled from a grandmother’s attic treasure chest. These were worked into looks more diverse than the motif might suggest, some of the diaphanous fare cut with natural waists, some Empire-style with alluring wayward sleeves.
The most literal rendering of the intended dark romance came in the group of exquisite black lace gowns with a touch of the glamorous storybook widow to them. But what gave the collection its soupçon of essential grit was the savvy integration of tailoring with a Forties attitude, crisp and smart coats, skirts and trousers, some integrated with lingerie pieces. Cases in point: A natural burlap and red-striped coatdress; a pair of pleated trousers worn with a full-sleeved bustier blouse cut low enough to reveal a hint of black lace underneath. Grounding it all, barely there gladiator sandals. Because what girl doesn’t have a bit of the warrior spirit within?