Jane Siskin’s spring presentation at the Beekman Hotel’s rooftop penthouse was a whimsical fete. Aerial performers were sprinkled among a series of model groupings, twirling through hoops and telling the story of an Italian carnival. Siskin was walking a piazza in Italy last year when she stumbled upon a portrait of a circuslike female character, paving the way for a story about traveling performers roaming village to villa. She wanted to evoke that essence in the clothing, and certainly did so with the presentation.
Save for the feathered stoles, the tether to the theme was light, showing more of the quirky feminine spirit inherent in the brand. A sense of lightness, fantasy and drama, along with an air of familiar approachability, drew you in. There was romance in the ethereal dresses toughened up with cropped jackets, and fluidity in loungewear-inspired sets that could transition from day to night. Many of the looks had that transitional quality: the black-and-white grouping with pretty lace and tulle were sleekly European, but even a blue printed robe coat was arguably dinner appropriate. The collection was made more inviting with its playful mashup of texture, fabrics, weights and prints that never once felt privileged. Some of the strongest looks balanced elements of masculine, feminine…and even grunge. Embroidered tops paired with wide-leg pants leaned toward the casual, while pinstripe and floral combos were underscored by a thread of ease.