Husband-and-wife Michael and Nicole Colovos’ latest collection from their still-infant brand took on the idea of a futuristic bazaar and, citing emergence theory, bringing together various, seemingly disconnected ideas into a complex whole. Having helmed the design team at Helmut Lang for nearly a decade, the show was underscored with a tone of minimal luxury. They opened with a series of chic and updated takes on trenches — reworking khaki cotton into a wrap dress, fold-over skirt or suiting; it’s a trend we’ve seen lately that elevates the closet staple into new territory. These were followed by sharply tailored denim, checkerboard prints, cutouts, red parachute silk and artisanal fringe elements. It sounds like a lot, but given the designers’ clean aesthetic, it all worked together.
The show was called “Multiform,” which could have any number of connotations. For one, the Colovoses focused on proportions and tailored craft, mixing Parisian sensibility with slightly deconstructed elements that managed to stay polished. A silky black pajama set with cutouts on the top, for example, was the epitome of relaxed chic. Second, many pieces were adjustable and could be wrapped and worn in different ways. Flyaway ties were a recurring element throughout, and many dresses and bustier tops featured casual, adjustable hardware straps. One such red-and-black print dress drew inspiration from artist Christopher Astley’s “Mayhap” series, whose work, too, toys with perception and blends contrasting elements. Layering helped tie the theme together, with bustiers worn over flowy shirts to balance the hard-soft, or hand-crafted sweaters paired with printed skirts for textural and pattern play.