It’s easy to feel lost and stare blankly back when listening to Gary Graham speak about the multilayered influences in his collection. Not that they’re uninteresting; on the contrary, the designer takes such deep dives into various cultural references that one must perk up to keep up. His collections are underlined with an ancient world aesthetic, so historical references are also commonplace.
The first point of entry for spring began with a trip to Maryanne Amacher’s former neo-Gothic mansion in Kingston, N.Y. A sound artist and true eccentric, she was the perfect muse. “People who create their own worlds are inspiring to me,” Graham said during a walk through. Simultaneously, Graham was reading the journals of Derek Jarman, whose writings about his gardens struck a chord. Models in the look book are seen channeling Maryanne in the vein of Jarman’s haunting imagery.
Not one to shy away from prints and intricate embroidery, the designer reworked interior patterns from the Victoria & Albert Museum into patchwork confections and metal floral beading inspired by toleware onto both sheer and fitted tops. Highlights included a patchwork tunic-style dress that could be fitted with a sash or worn loose on the body; the various slipdresses with double layers or intricate beading, and a fitted embroidered vest paired with a mattress ticked skirt (a technique applied onto a sturdy striped coat and worker dress, as well).
“I’m still continuing the abstract vintage,” Graham noted. “I’m always inspired by old details.”