Watchwords for ICB’s spring 2018 collection included “urban wonderland” and “optical illusion,” which were apt given the design collective’s reference photo of a sewage drain with graffiti above it. It lead to collaborations with Carl Rauschenbach and Edward Granger, two New York-based artists whose works play on geometry and graphic elements. Their prints enlivened T-shirts, sweatshirts and silky silhouettes; they also inspired the stark chevron prints on the brand’s first attempt at making knitwear from scratch. They’ve made some great knitwear before with fabrics they’ve found, notably the solid brights with elongated sleeves from fall 2016; the ones this season maintained similar silhouettes, but now with a grittier attitude.
It all highlighted an evolving edgier customer (she had a mountaineering spirit last season, after all). Where the dreamlike gloss of that season translated to tough silhouettes for the outdoors, for spring it found its way onto softer, more relaxed layers appropriate for wandering through an urban city. Pajama sets, for instance, toyed with soft lines and fluidity but weren’t too precious to be worn out; ditto for silk slips and soft-tailored coats that balanced minimalism and comfort. They showcased a relaxed side to chic, though customers likely won’t oppose the sharp-shouldered blazers either, which helped round out a masculine-feminine sensibility.