As Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig see it, Marchesa collections are not about registering trends or creating disposable fashion, but showing “a continual fairy-tale of timepieces that people keep and covet,” said Chapman backstage before the show. For spring, they took the story of Aimée Crocker, a 19th century wealthy railroad heiress with a taste for extravagance and adventure who loved the Far East, pearls, flowers and her five husbands. She wrote a book called “And I’d Do It Again,” and provided Chapman and Craig with lots of lavish material for the collection. The show started off in a relatively understated way with a series of black-and-white confections and evening tailoring, for example, a black tulle tea-length wrap gown strewn with pretty ivory floral embroidery, and an ivory tuxedo trimmed in pearl and crystal embroidery and tied with a black satin bow. The lineup was rife with hyperfeminine gowns and cocktail dresses fit for life’s most romantic moments. It was easy to get caught up in the fairy-tale, and at times Chapman and Craig whipped the frothy tulle, silk taffeta and organza in pink, lilac and burgundy into a lather, bedecking already precious frocks with saccharine cherry-blossom embroideries and sprigs of wisteria. It can be fun to get carried away and all Marchesa’s dresses are made for the fantastic side of life. They might be better off shown mise-en-scène rather than on the runway. Setting such confections in motion brings them down to earth, and let’s face it, these are clothes made for posing for pictures, standing still, sipping a cocktail and generally sitting pretty.

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