Marissa Webb understands the importance of staying true to her brand’s DNA. She made a conscious effort this season to keep the lineup tight, filled only with items she and her staff would wear. “If we don’t want to wear it, we don’t expect anyone else to,” she said in her showroom. “Sometimes I think we forget that.”

She works by way of mood and emotion rather than specific inspirations — evolving the range along with shifts in her personal style and what’s happening in her life. She’s been bent on travel recently — having gone to Morocco and Tulum this summer — which would explain the softer, more carefree tone and feminine use of florals. “There were full, beautiful gardens and everywhere I went I was noticing nature,” she continued. The energetic yellow floral dresses instantly drew one in, and played nicely against the core structured items she’s known for. She cut back on the signature military green, instead injecting khaki with feminine trims and laser-cut treatments, along with a rust hue in silky dresses and soft-tailored jackets. Indeed, there was a thread of soft fluidity underscored by novelty. Ruffles and knits were designed to hang loose; even leathers were punctuated with lace-like treatments and scalloped trims. “This summer we were doing a lot of running around and wanted to feel light and fresh and easy. We wanted it to not feel too serious.”