Moon and David Mitchell are two patient business owners. The husband-and-wife duo launched Ovoll three years ago to mild enthusiasm from buyers. Proportions were too big, they were told, or too avant-garde for the advanced contemporary market. Construction wasn’t the issue; rather, demand for their aesthetic proved challenging in a risk-averse retail environment.
They thought they found their footing with fall, taking their signature languid, feminine style and precision tailoring and rebranding it with a streetwear bent. The mix of prints and proportions was noticeably edgier, cooler and younger. Still, orders for that collection were too small to produce at a profit.
So spring marks another evolution for the brand, a proof of concept collection that breathes new life into unwanted, unsold product. Titled Ovoll “o.o.a.k.” — which stands for “one of a kind” — the upcycled collection retains last season’s edgy vibe with more of Moon’s personal style of elevated streetwear and adds an eco-conscious outlook. Much of the stock bought was on clearance or ready to be thrown away, and no new fabrics were purchased. It’s a clever way of cutting costs, creating a limited product and capitalizing on a do-it-yourself-streetwear sensibility.
Much of the collection has a sense of quirky, purposeful imperfection. Oversized blazers were deconstructed and reconstructed to feature asymmetry and elongated sleeves; shirting came with every design element imaginable — asymmetry, exposed collars, tattered necklines, cold shoulders and angular shapes, to name a few. The strength of the collection lies in its gender-ambiguity; in fact, many of the pieces were men’s oversized basics tailored to fit smaller frames. Size 40 jeans, for example, featured an overlapping waistline and baggy fit that would work on anyone. It all made for a playful balance of streetwear and designer.