Artistic director Cecilia Bonstrom is radiating positivity. She arrived in New York a few days ago to prep the show (she finished the collection in early summer), taking in the city and feeling justified in her decision to show here instead of Paris. “New York is such a great city, with such a beautiful energy,” she said backstage. “The people are amazing because there’s such a mix.”
Her spring collection had a similar message of joy with the motto, “Let Love Rule.” She imagined a story about family and the discovery of your grandparents’ time-faded clothing in the attic. Translating that into her runway was a balance of contrasts — of the masculine-feminine, modern-vintage and quirky-refined — tying into the versatile and relaxed aesthetic that has defined the Z&V girl.
And the range was quite large. There was strong knitwear, boxy men’s-inspired tailoring, updated military looks, billowy sun-faded dresses and sparkly disco-age references, all underscored with loose fits, a transitional quality of day-to-evening and a spunky rock-’n’-roll vibe. The knitwear was a clear standout; colorful oversized sweaters and tight little lurex tops paired over baggy bottoms had an air of nonchalance. Tailoring standouts included the purposefully wrinkled white suit and oversized proportions that played to the fascination with Eighties silhouettes. In a category that could be labeled glam military, there was a camo-printed eyelet ensemble and an Army-green slipdress styled over sequined pants.
“It’s fashion, but it’s not fashionable,” Bonstrom continued. “I try to create a collection, building it with product — what can save a woman in her daily life. She can ride the bus and then go to a cocktail party. It’s really that balance for me.”