With its pattern of wide blue and white stripes, the invitation for Alexis Mabille’s spring show brought to mind men’s pajamas. But the title of the show, “Paris Blossom,” suggested he might have more romantic offerings in store.
Masculine-feminine contrasts are a hallmark of the designer’s work. This season’s take on the idea was his best in a while, as Mabille riffed on oversized shirts and lingerie-meets-sportswear for his breezy lineup of throw-it-on dresses, spiced up with lace trimming and saucy underwear.
The latter was designed by Dita Von Teese, who sat in the front row, having celebrated her 45th birthday the previous night with Mabille and other Paris friends. “I adore what she does,” said the designer, who made a pair of blue briefs the focal point of one look, by pairing them with sheer white tulle-and-lace pants.
He also delivered plenty of stripes, plastering them on sheer shirts, satiny trench coats and billowing shorts. That pajama? A long blue-and-white striped shirt with blue lace inserts, paired with pleated silk track pants — 100 percent femme.