Memories lit the corners of Antonin Tron’s mind for his third Atlein collection, the second he’s shown on the runway. “For spring, I wanted to do something very personal, I felt free to go into my own past. I thought about how memories compose a person, how you remember things — there are a lot of personal but also European memories, growing up in Paris,” he said backstage at his show. For starters, he reminisced about his work at Louis Vuitton, where he designed men’s wear. “I am really at ease with tailoring.” The dichotomy — Atlein is all about body-conscious jersey dressing — worked in his favor because he managed to give khaki military-inspired jackets a feminine edge via strategic seams that accentuated the body; ditto for the matching shorts and trousers throughout the lineup.
Elsewhere, his signature jersey numbers came with twists and ruchings varied enough to keep the audience interested — a print combo here, a pop of color there, asymmetric cuts on cool polo dresses, a twisted back on a great white ankle length gathered dress.