Serge Ruffieux pulled off a charming debut based on a globetrotting collage of references, tossing into the tumbler prints recalling Seventies interiors, aristocratic touches, African fabrics and various other peripatetic nods, from revisited safari vests to tropical prints with a hand-painted quality.
The Left Bank references were suitably tongue-in-cheek with a series of cropped tops — some with A-line volumes — based on reworked quilted Barbour jackets and polo shirts, some paired with pants sprinkled with couture embroidery. A cute recurrent print was based on the rooster, a symbol of France.
Ruffieux was fearless in his mix of colors, including on the fun decorative flats, with sharp red and a shot of acid green — it’s the house color, after all — surprising the overall palette of muted tones like duck blue, dusty coral and pale yellow.
A faraway vibe also came in his use of cord piping as a drawstring to create smocking effects and structured tops with openings on the sleeves, which enhanced the overall crafty feel.
With the show’s location the Jussieu university, and real life students milling about, the collection was compelling and fittingly young at heart for the Carven brand — not forgetting the gaggle of bright young things seated front row, including British actress Amber Anderson and Canadian contemporary artist Chloe Wise — even if it needs to mature a little.