For a collection that was all about the Amazon, Elie Saab got the room temperature just right: the Grand Palais venue was sweltering before the first palm frond print hit the catwalk.
The designer worked a rainbow of colors in tonal and degradé looks. A Grecian-style pleated evening gown seeped from jungle green to waterfall blue, while daywear options included a canary yellow short dress with geometric embroideries, which came with matching sandals and oversized shades for added zing.
Saab said the monochrome looks were a throwback to his Nineties designs, yet the show marked a step forward in his quest to bring more daywear into the mix. “I feel a new energy in this collection,” he said backstage.
The effort was most apparent in the studded T-shirts, knotted shirts and embellished biker jackets that were sprinkled throughout the display. There was a whiff of Roberto Cavalli in the profusion of python print and silk fringe, but the princess gowns were pure Saab.
They came in black tulle embroidered with pink and green leaves, or in bold color-blocked shades with sexy cutouts at the midriff. A sheer white bustier dress embroidered with white leaves felt like an oasis of calm in his tropical reverie.