“We started by collaging together different ideas that we had, from sleeves to silhouettes to a leg to a skirt to different patterns we have worked on since the beginning. Literally collaging them from our runway pictures and seeing what other shapes could come out from all the work,” Esteban Cortazar said backstage before the show.

Sounds complicated? It was at times, with his busy, layered silhouettes often proving hard to read. Case in point: One look layered a voluminous sheer top with cuffs over a white top with trailing lengths, worn with a striped skirt with a contrast satin corsetlike waist and an electric blue zipper opening on the leg.

The designer’s tropical South American vibe had a futuristic twist, enhanced by the models’ wet hair and the sculpted dresses in signature neoprene or chunky tobacco Lurex knits with chiffon panels.

In the athletic camp, dresses twisting around body in swirling motifs had a surfer vibe. An intarsia leather dress forming an abstract mask was also striking, though the eye ultimately settled on the simpler looks like a graphic black-and-white pant with an athletic swimsuit-like top.

The effervescent Cortazar likened the approach to the creation of salsa, with a mix of different thing. Something for everyone.

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