It’s not what but rather how Junichi Abe puts his inspiration that keeps everyone in thrall at Kolor. Tropical prints, Ivy League prep and sportswear are certainly nothing new at this point in the game.

But it wasn’t the tropical mood that made his range feel light: It was the free-spirited ease of the clothes themselves. Lightweight technical materials played well with lace and silk on expertly spliced, yet approachable hybrids that skewed more feminine than funky.

Best of the crop were trousers with suiting at hip level and descending into nylon legs, rating high on the chic scale; an elbow-length sweatshirt with a transparent striped silk back; juxtapositions of pleats and flat fabrics; skirts with shorts as liners were flirty, not fussy; a cold-shoulder dress that was part shift, part chiffon, and all those nylon jackets in which Abe created volumes thanks to cunning cuts and well-placed gathers in seams.


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