“I wanted to feel like people, volume, so big noise and small noise. This idea of calmness, like something which was most sensual, kind of daywear. I wanted this idea of repeating, like when you experience it, you would see it over again, so it’s a circle emotion…The development of the woman…it’s like she’s broken out of her domestic space. It’s more like she is kind of freer…that I wanted in the clothing …a lot of jerseys, wool jerseys, cotton jerseys.”
Bingo! Wool jerseys, cotton jerseys — understood!
As for the rest of Jonathan Anderson’s post-show dissertation, not so much. But who needs to grasp the deeper meaning when on the surface, the clothes are fabulous? And these clothes were fabulous. The Loewe collection Anderson showed on Friday morning intoxicated with its fusion of high interest work and breath-of-fresh-air ease, the clothes complicated in construction and intensity of design, but never in attitude.
At the risk of sounding superficial, one sensed a germ of an easily articulated inspiration — Isak Dinesen. In fact more than a germ, one that grew not in a tidy upward sprout, but broadly and wildly. Anderson took pieces with cinematic resonance — calico peplums, dresses, safari, tribal elements — and integrated them with modern classics: T-shirt dress, shirtdress, trench. Only he extracted costumery from the former and blah familiarity from the latter, infusing both with gleeful fashion currency. His silhouettes vacillated from voluminous to reed-thin, interest achieved via details such as asymmetry, handkerchief hemlines and porthole torso cutouts, revealing either skin or underlying fabric layers. Anderson’s use of fabrics? Spectacular, with a focus on artisanal blocking: A beyond-words fabulous shirtdress in de-sweetened pastels; ditto, a skinny knit look and long, sturdy khaki T-dresses inset with blocks of sun-bleached checks. The artisanal element carried through in a printed patchwork dress and fringing, both in traditional trims and in an audaciously shredded and twisted trench.
A number of looks were worn with shoes with upturned elfin, an amusing punctuation on a fashion-packed show, unquestionably one of the season’s best.