By  on October 3, 2017

Miuccia Prada’s spring Miu Miu collection was very Miu Miu, meaning the clothes encapsulated the cockeyed yet alluring mix of girlish and boyish, ugly and pretty, and retro but not vintage, that defines the label’s aesthetic. But this time the lineup felt less about a singular, unmissable message — like the extravagant furs and beach part of her recent collections — than a collection of outfits born from the label’s specific aesthetic vocabulary. That’s not meant as a slight. They were interesting, unique, fashion-filled outfits, but they didn’t scream.

Prada intended it that way. “What was important for me, what was really new was, for the first time, I really worked on girls, on different people and enjoying the way one dress looked different on one girl versus another one,” she said after the show. “We discovered at the end the show was for very few white girls.” More than half of the 57 models cast for the show were not Caucasian. Prada didn’t elaborate on her process, if she had personalities and ethnicities in mind when she was designing or if it came down to final styling and casting, but she delivered a diversity statement within the show. And yet it didn’t come off like a preachy stunt. The models looked as natural and beautiful as they ever could, and it remained a fashion show about clothes.

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