With an in-house team now behind the collection, there was a feeling of re-centering on what the house is known for: a wardrobe built on roomy, layered, versatile silhouettes for the intellectual woman, in signature shades of camel, navy, ivory and beige.
Rising Slovakian photographer Michal Pudelka was behind the show’s creative direction, with the runway as an oval section of earth on which the models left a footprint track, and in its center scaffolding structures that served as platforms for two female musicians tooting wooden pipes against a soundtrack of wind. (Pudelka described it as a reference to “How deeply we are rooted in the soil.”)
It suited the line’s slow pace and ethnic spirit, with a Native American flavor in the braiding details and the apron dresses in hand-loomed linen in natural tones with fringing. There were crafty touches throughout, with the blown-up volumes in signature crisp cottons adding to the nomadic vibe.
Urban workwear references were also key, with pants wrapped and tucked at the waist with volume opening at the legs, and the utilitarian storyline extending to detachable sections on tops and skirts.