Nobieh Talaei has carved a unique place for herself by juxtaposing her Persian roots with architectural forms, and her subtle yet regal spring collection was no exception, adorned as it was with more than 18,000 Swarovski crystals and pearls.
In a largely muted color palette, layer upon lightweight layer of organza, tulle, cotton, wool and leather were her construction materials. A traditional Termeh paisley fabric — more often used for homewares, the designer said — created an earthy contrast when incorporated as panels on a dress, while a short and boxy leather poncho hand-sewn with more than 1,000 pearls summed up her original stance.
Part of Talaei’s inspiration this season was the preciously adorned Persian bride, quite literal in the final look with its layered tulle skirt and brightly striped hooded top, but also visible elsewhere, as in a sweeping skirt in a beautiful iridescent blue, worn with an oversized collar set with crystals and perfect for a princess.
Such details were contrasted with more traditional European shapes, with straight, loose bodices and shirt collars. References to modernist art — Talaei cited Lucio Fontana and Piero Manzoni among her influences — brought in stripes and a wealth of pleats, a technique the designer hadn’t used before. Graphic circular shapes came from the same source, both on the fabrics and in their form, as in a single architectural shoulder or an outsized pleated collar.