A sandy path meant to symbolize the Silk Road, an ancient network of trade routes connecting the East to the West, was the ideal setting for this solid collection built on fusing influences from the two cultures.

But that has been the house’s signature since the get-go. The noticeable shift here was in the fresh youth factor, as the luxury Chinese brand looks to tap a younger clientele.

A lot of the looks had a childish, storybook charm, even, like the delicate romper-style shorts edged with lace — a house signature — evoking vintage lingerie; silk pajamas with piping and delicate hand-drawn prints, and the bright belted coats and matching Paddington Bear-style rain hats that had an innocent Thirties allure.

The designer also sprinkled in some denim looks with sporty badges and embroidery.

Eastern elements included the palette, like mixes of hot pink and red, and subtle traditional prints and embroideries depicting water lilies and lotus flowers, as well as old classics like the silk jackets and dresses with Chinese collars and embroidery.

The more grown-up element came in the long Fifties-style gowns, but even then elongated striped belts gave a sporty twist to break the ladylike quality.

With its 40th anniversary coming next year, and a new flagship on Avenue Montaigne, the heritage brand looks set for a new chapter.

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