The cats were there, but they didn’t walk for the presentation of Austrian label Wendy Jim. They sat on trees, batted hanging balls of yarn or lounged on cushions with the practiced indifference felines are known for. There was meowing on the soundtrack. “The idea came to us when it was reported we would be doing a catwalk. And we wanted to take the Instagram cat hype on,” said Helga Ruthner, one half of the design duo.

Having removed the ampersand from their name as a sign of gender fluidity, she and partner Hermann Fankhauser are making a return after an absence — last season, they’d shown off-schedule. Impeccable shirts, tailored trousers and suit jackets will prove catnip to those who were missing the brand. It is one of their forte, and worn on males and females.

Elsewhere, simple dress shapes and technical sports clothing like chimney neck tops and cycling shorts in acid green Lycra were well executed but charmless.

Ruthner said they’d been concentrating on fit — in clothes as in society’s preconceived boxes. Social proof of countless YouTube videos is that cool cats will make any box fit, and those of Wendy Jim did, albeit with some overhang.

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