Yves Salomon, the French furrier who has made it his mission to reduce the weight of fur, trained his sights on leather for his spring collection. The combination of a new leather-lightening technique with the house’s signature focus on color came out in the form of a pleated, paper light leather dress, in periwinkle.

A hip, shiny patent leather trenchcoat and even hipper bomber jacket — embellished with a mink collar — were ultralight. The brown sheen added to their retro looks.

“Leather is so heavy that we tend to use it for smaller pieces, but now, on the contrary, we can go for it and make big parkas,” Salomon noted. The third generation furrier said the house had been working on developing the technique for over a year.

There was also fur, not always the most obvious option for summer. Here again, the label challenged traditions, making a blouse out of light brown sheared mink as well as sewing fox fur and suede leather fringes onto airy silk organza.

In the color department, this season’s signature intarsia mink coat was long, blending light pink and yellow with dark green.

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