Thanks to support from Amazon Fashion via its At Tokyo program, Yasuko Furuta presented her first show in Tokyo in 12 years, and it just so happened to coincide with her brand’s 20th anniversary. The designer said she views it as her job to always be creating new things, and therefore, she didn’t want to pull styles from her archives but wanted to create a collection that was as representative of her brand as possible. Her models descended via escalator to a curved runway set up on the ground floor of the National Art Center Tokyo. She added feminine detailing such as cinched waists and cropped lengths to men’s wear, while masculine shapes and tailoring was mixed into her women’s offering. Pleated skirts had a hole in the front for one leg to pass through, dresses had high slits or a single long sleeve, and trousers had wide legs and high waists. A series of subtly deconstructed suiting included jackets that were turned inside out or had cutout backs or lopped off sleeves. Furuta incorporated a variety of eye-catching textures, from clear vinyl and sheer mesh to plastic-y crinkle fabrics and a ruched metallic plaid.

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