Emilia Wickstead explored a lot of new territory for spring, adding tailoring and a whole lot of drama to her usual repertoire of pretty florals and feminine dresses.
It was a risk worth taking. Inspired by Eighties classics like “Working Girl,” Wickstead went on to create her own “feminist fairytale,” bringing a refreshingly new energy to her catwalk.
“I started with the setting and the vibe of the late Eighties and early Nineties, which saw this huge rise of feminism in the working place,” said the designer.
A series of both long and short tailored looks came in chic neutral tones — they channeled the boldness of the Eighties with big, structured shoulders and mini briefcases, but were also given a softer Wickstead touch by adding an array of cute, oversize hair bows.
Further down the line some more familiar silhouettes made a flash appearance in the form of ruched, flowing midi dreses featuring bright shades of red and pink or signature floral patterns. But Wickstead toughened them up here, reworking them in patent leather or rubberized fabrics to add a more modern flair.
A pleated patent sack dress, in a sugary pink shade, was a highlight. It was paired with a bejeweled headpiece that made for a delightful, futuristic vision of an ultra-chic extraterrestrial creature.
Elsewhere, a model sported a shimmering pink cocktail dress, with her mini briefcase still in tow, while others wore white poplin numbers with big, dramatic ruffled sleeves.
The drama continued up until the finale, when Wickstead presented a series of striking evening gowns; they featured bold primary colors, gigantic bows at the back and clean, structured silk-gazar silhouettes that were reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga.
“I wanted to connect the two worlds of how women dressed up during that era; that’s why I called it my feminist fairytale,” added Wickstead.