Charlotte Knowles, Yuhan Wang and Asai’s A Sai Ta served up a combination of experimental and tongue-in-cheek designs at the Fashion East showcase, where utilitarian silhouettes, string bikinis and girly details poked fun at stereotypical female codes.

Knowles opened the show with a red corseted number that had a halter-neck bikini attachment, which laid out the foundation to her spring collection. A sea-lion printed dress, which looked like it was made out of bikinis, fitted leggings and Lycra shorts with leg ties all riffed off the two-piece swimwear. These hyper-feminine pieces were contrasted with trashy chic low-rise jeans and a fitted military jacket.

Wang’s portrait of a woman was soft, delicate yet slightly run down. Silk and printed jersey dresses were loosely bunched and gathered at the sides and these flounced gently down the runway. While these styles were dreamy, they also looked like ensembles made for women of the night. Dresses were cut out at the hip and slashed around the legs and their gloved hands fell drearily to the wayside.

Asai’s A Sai Ta took a welcome break from his usual fringed looks and introduced more tailored pieces, such as an oil slick coat and a wide utilitarian waist belt with flap pockets. Ta also incorporated a print reminiscent of a Chinese porcelain vase and multicolored tie-dye patterns seen on cropped cape tops and flowy blouses. A highlight included a pair of pale pink jeans that were embellished to look like thigh-high cowboy boots.

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