Antonio Berardi decided to pay homage to the woman who has helped build his brand and channel his creativity: Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, known for her killer heels, uproarious laugh, and far-flung fashion projects — including her magazine 10.

Instead of unveiling his spring lineup with a runway show or a presentation, he created a photo gallery of several women, including Neophitou-Apostolou herself, Net-a-porter president Alison Loehnis, Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi and Italian fashion editor Anna Dello Russo, who personally picked their favorite looks from the collection and posed for the camera.

This format definitely exalted the versatility of the lineup, which this season included a range of revamped styles and themes from Berardi’s past.

The designer kept his constructions a bit simpler and softer. Kimono jackets, still enriched with Berardi’s couture-like techniques, were designed to gently wrap the body, while maxi multi-layered dresses were splashed with fresh floral patterns. Toile de jouy, used for asymmetric dresses and feminine blouses, portrayed gender-fluid scenes, while a magnified lace pattern, inspired by the British Pearly Kings and Queens tradition, gave a graphic, tribal feel to dresses with drawstring sleeves.

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