Daniele Calcaterra worked a garden palette with colors such as sage, burnt orange, buttercup and peach, into this collection, where less was more and the simplest silhouettes worked best. Dresses were long and sweeping, as in a one-sleeve peach gown that hugged the bodice, and the dramatic cream top and skirt combination that opened the show.
A long burgundy dress with an Empire waist and a low scoop neck had a sporty feel, while a belted cinnamon silk one with a handkerchief hem made a satisfying swoosh down the runway. There were some nice oversize suits, too, for men and women both, some of which came with obi belts.
The coppery patent leather pieces fell flat, as did the fishnet-and-fringe ones: The former looked heavy, uncomfortable — and slightly silly — like costumes from a comedy sci-fi series, while the latter looked like Halloween get-ups. Calcaterra would do well to slim down this collection and focus on dressing real characters rather than fictional ones.